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About
Labradors

The
Labrador Retriever Club's 25th Field Trials - England 1935
Overview
The Labrador
Retriever is considered a large dog, standing between 22-25 inches and weighing
between 60-80 pounds. Labs, as they are affectionately called, have a
block head, drop ears, short coat and a strong "otter" tail.
Their fur is dense and designed to repel water. The coat comes in jet
black, pale to deep chocolate, and yellow, which can range from cream to russet.
Labs have been
long prized for their abilities as devoted hunting companions. Bred to
work alongside humans, the Labrador adapts extremely well to family life and
will happily retrieve tennis balls or the morning newspaper with equal
enthausiam. Although energetic outside, most Labs are happiest living
inside with their families and usually enjoy the company of children and other
pets. You can see Labs not only hunting, but also doing agility,
obedience work, therapy work, fly-ball, Frisbee and many other activities.
Their large noses, coupled with their eagerness to work, make them ideal drug
sniffing or search and rescue dogs. Because they don't play favorites,
they are very accepting of all members of the family and adjust well to new
babies or children leaving for school. They are not guard dogs, but their
size and loud bark are protective.
History
The Lab actually
developed in Newfoundland, from whence he made his way to England, probably with
fishermen who worked the rich fisheries off the coast of the eastern Canadian
provinces. There, in order to avoid confusion with the larger, heavy-coated
Newfoundland dog, he was called the Labrador. The original Labrador Retriever
was a versatile working dog, able to rescue drifting nets, bring back shot
waterfowl, and haul the catch to market in jog carts. Once in England, however,
his marvelous nose brought him fame as a hunting dog, a job he relishes today.
From this early
beginning, the dog developed into the Labrador of today - one that excels in a
variety of uses beyond the hunting field. The adaptability and
trainability of the breed finds it utilized in many dog guide and assistance
programs, as well as excelling in substance detection or search and rescue work.
And, of course, with proper training and socializing, Labrador Retrievers are
WONDERFUL family companions.
Because the
Labrador was a dual-purpose dog, the breed soon attracted the attention of
sportsmen in this country and it came back to this continent in the early part
of the 20th century. Today, according to the American Kennel Club, the
Labrador Retriever is the most popular breed in the United States and it has
held that position since 1992.

Elliot
& Luke pointing in Fox River
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The
American Kennel Club (AKC) Breed Standard
General
Appearance
The Labrador Retriever is a strongly built, medium-sized, short-coupled,
dog possessing a sound, athletic, well-balanced conformation that
enables it to function as a retrieving gun dog; the substance and
soundness to hunt waterfowl or upland game for long hours under
difficult conditions; the character and quality to win in the show ring;
and the temperament to be a family companion. Physical features and
mental characteristics should denote a dog bred to perform as an
efficient Retriever of game with a stable temperament suitable for a
variety of pursuits beyond the hunting environment.
The most distinguishing characteristics of the Labrador Retriever are
its short, dense, weather resistant coat; an "otter" tail; a
clean-cut head with broad back skull and moderate stop; powerful jaws;
and its "kind," friendly eyes, expressing character,
intelligence and good temperament.
Above all, a Labrador Retriever must be well balanced, enabling it to
move in the show ring or work in the field with little or no effort. The
typical Labrador possesses style and quality without over refinement,
and substance without lumber or cloddiness. The Labrador is bred
primarily as a working gun dog; structure and soundness are of great
importance.
Size, Proportion and Substance
Size--The height at the withers for a dog is 22½ to 24½ inches; for a
bitch is 21½ to 23½ inches. Any variance greater than ½ inch above or
below these heights is a disqualification. Approximate weight of dogs
and bitches in working condition: dogs 65 to 80 pounds; bitches 55 to 70
pounds.
The minimum height ranges set forth in the paragraph above shall not
apply to dogs or bitches under twelve months of age.
Proportion--Short-coupled; length from the point of the shoulder to the
point of the rump is equal to or slightly longer than the distance from
the withers to the ground. Distance from the elbow to the ground should
be equal to one half of the height at the withers. The brisket should
extend to the elbows, but not perceptibly deeper. The body must be of
sufficient length to permit a straight, free and efficient stride; but
the dog should never appear low and long or tall and leggy in outline.
Substance--Substance and bone proportionate to the overall dog. Light,
"weedy" individuals are definitely incorrect; equally
objectionable are cloddy lumbering specimens. Labrador Retrievers shall
be shown in working condition well-muscled and without excess fat.
Head
Skull--The skull should be wide; well developed but without
exaggeration. The skull and foreface should be on parallel planes and of
approximately equal length. There should be a moderate stop--the brow
slightly pronounced so that the skull is not absolutely in a straight
line with the nose. The brow ridges aid in defining the stop. The head
should be clean-cut and free from fleshy cheeks; the bony structure of
the skull chiseled beneath the eye with no prominence in the cheek. The
skull may show some median line; the occipital bone is not conspicuous
in mature dogs. Lips should not be squared off or pendulous, but fall
away in a curve toward the throat. A wedge-shape head, or a head long
and narrow in muzzle and back skull is incorrect as are massive, cheeky
heads. The jaws are powerful and free from snippiness-- the muzzle
neither long and narrow nor short and stubby. Nose-- The nose should be
wide and the nostrils well-developed. The nose should be black on black
or yellow dogs, and brown on chocolates. Nose color fading to a lighter
shade is not a fault. A thoroughly pink nose or one lacking in any
pigment is a disqualification. Teeth--The teeth should be strong and
regular with a scissors bite; the lower teeth just behind, but touching
the inner side of the upper incisors. A level bite is acceptable, but
not desirable. Undershot, overshot, or misaligned teeth are serious
faults. Full dentition is preferred. Missing molars or pre-molars are
serious faults. Ears--The ears should hang moderately close to the head,
set rather far back, and somewhat low on the skull; slightly above eye
level. Ears should not be large and heavy, but in proportion with the
skull and reach to the inside of the eye when pulled forward.
Eyes--Kind, friendly eyes imparting good temperament, intelligence and
alertness are a hallmark of the breed. They should be of medium size,
set well apart, and neither protruding nor deep set. Eye color should be
brown in black and yellow Labradors, and brown or hazel in chocolates.
Black, or yellow eyes give a harsh expression and are undesirable. Small
eyes, set close together or round prominent eyes are not typical of the
breed. Eye rims are black in black and yellow Labradors; and brown in
chocolates. Eye rims without pigmentation is a disqualification.
Neck, Topline and Body
Neck--The neck should be of proper length to allow the dog to retrieve
game easily. It should be muscular and free from throatiness. The neck
should rise strongly from the shoulders with a moderate arch. A short,
thick neck or a "ewe" neck is incorrect. Topline--The back is
strong and the topline is level from the withers to the croup when
standing or moving. However, the loin should show evidence of
flexibility for athletic endeavor. Body--The Labrador should be
short-coupled, with good spring of ribs tapering to a moderately wide
chest. The Labrador should not be narrow chested; giving the appearance
of hollowness between the front legs, nor should it have a wide
spreading, bulldog-like front. Correct chest conformation will result in
tapering between the front legs that allows unrestricted forelimb
movement. Chest breadth that is either too wide or too narrow for
efficient movement and stamina is incorrect. Slab-sided individuals are
not typical of the breed; equally objectionable are rotund or barrel
chested specimens. The underline is almost straight, with little or no
tuck-up in mature animals. Loins should be short, wide and strong;
extending to well developed, powerful hindquarters. When viewed from the
side, the Labrador Retriever shows a well-developed, but not exaggerated
forechest. Tail--The tail is a distinguishing feature of the breed. It
should be very thick at the base, gradually tapering toward the tip, of
medium length, and extending no longer than to the hock. The tail should
be free from feathering and clothed thickly all around with the
Labrador's short, dense coat, thus having that peculiar rounded
appearance that has been described as the "otter" tail. The
tail should follow the topline in repose or when in motion. It may be
carried gaily, but should not curl over the back. Extremely short tails
or long thin tails are serious faults. The tail completes the balance of
the Labrador by giving it a flowing line from the top of the head to the
tip of the tail. Docking or otherwise altering the length or natural
carriage of the tail is a disqualification.
Forequarters
Forequarters should be muscular, well coordinated and balanced with the
hindquarters. Shoulders--The shoulders are well laid-back, long and
sloping, forming an angle with the upper arm of approximately 90 degrees
that permits the dog to move his forelegs in an easy manner with strong
forward reach. Ideally, the length of the shoulder blade should equal
the length of the upper arm. Straight shoulder blades, short upper arms
or heavily muscled or loaded shoulders, all restricting free movement,
are incorrect. Front Legs--When viewed from the front, the legs should
be straight with good strong bone. Too much bone is as undesirable as
too little bone, and short legged, heavy boned individuals are not
typical of the breed. Viewed from the side, the elbows should be
directly under the withers, and the front legs should be perpendicular
to the ground and well under the body. The elbows should be close to the
ribs without looseness. Tied-in elbows or being "out at the
elbows" interfere with free movement and are serious faults.
Pasterns should be strong and short and should slope slightly from the
perpendicular line of the leg. Feet are strong and compact, with
well-arched toes and well-developed pads. Dew claws may be removed.
Splayed feet, hare feet, knuckling over, or feet turning in or out are
serious faults.
Hindquarters
The Labrador's hindquarters are broad, muscular and well-developed from
the hip to the hock with well-turned stifles and strong short hocks.
Viewed from the rear, the hind legs are straight and parallel. Viewed
from the side, the angulation of the rear legs is in balance with the
front. The hind legs are strongly boned, muscled with moderate
angulation at the stifle, and powerful, clearly defined thighs. The
stifle is strong and there is no slippage of the patellae while in
motion or when standing. The hock joints are strong, well let down and
do not slip or hyper-extend while in motion or when standing. Angulation
of both stifle and hock joint is such as to achieve the optimal balance
of drive and traction. When standing the rear toes are only slightly
behind the point of the rump. Over angulation produces a sloping topline
not typical of the breed. Feet are strong and compact, with well-arched
toes and well-developed pads. Cow-hocks, spread hocks, sickle hocks and
over-angulation are serious structural defects and are to be faulted.
Coat
The coat is a distinctive feature of the Labrador Retriever. It should
be short, straight and very dense, giving a fairly hard feeling to the
hand. The Labrador should have a soft, weather-resistant undercoat that
provides protection from water, cold and all types of ground cover. A
slight wave down the back is permissible. Woolly coats, soft silky
coats, and sparse slick coats are not typical of the breed, and should
be severely penalized.
Color
The Labrador Retriever coat colors are black, yellow and chocolate. Any
other color or a combination of colors is a disqualification. A small
white spot on the chest is permissible, but not desirable. White hairs
from aging or scarring are not to be misinterpreted as brindling.
Black--Blacks are all black. A black with brindle markings or a black
with tan markings is a disqualification. Yellow--Yellows may range in
color from fox-red to light cream, with variations in shading on the
ears, back, and underparts of the dog. Chocolate--Chocolates can vary in
shade from light to dark chocolate. Chocolate with brindle or tan
markings is a disqualification.
Movement
Movement of the Labrador Retriever should be free and effortless. When
watching a dog move toward oneself, there should be no sign of elbows
out. Rather, the elbows should be held neatly to the body with the legs
not too close together. Moving straight forward without pacing or
weaving, the legs should form straight lines, with all parts moving in
the same plane. Upon viewing the dog from the rear, one should have the
impression that the hind legs move as nearly as possible in a parallel
line with the front legs. The hocks should do their full share of the
work, flexing well, giving the appearance of power and strength. When
viewed from the side, the shoulders should move freely and effortlessly,
and the foreleg should reach forward close to the ground with extension.
A short, choppy movement or high knee action indicates a straight
shoulder; paddling indicates long, weak pasterns; and a short, stilted
rear gait indicates a straight rear assembly; all are serious faults.
Movement faults interfering with performance including weaving;
side-winding; crossing over; high knee action; paddling; and short,
choppy movement, should be severely penalized.
Temperament
True Labrador Retriever temperament is as much a hallmark of the breed
as the "otter" tail. The ideal disposition is one of a kindly,
outgoing, tractable nature; eager to please and non-aggressive towards
man or animal. The Labrador has much that appeals to people; his gentle
ways, intelligence and adaptability make him an ideal dog.
Aggressiveness towards humans or other animals, or any evidence of
shyness in an adult should be severely penalized.
Disqualifications
1. Any deviation from the height prescribed in the Standard.
2. A thoroughly pink nose or one lacking in any pigment.
3. Eye rims without pigment.
4. Docking or otherwise altering the length or natural carriage of the
tail.
5. Any other color or a combination of colors other than black, yellow
or chocolate as described in the Standard.
American
Kennel Club, Approved February 12, 1994
American Kennel Club, Effective March 31, 1994
There
are only 3 colors of Labradors ...
Black
Yellow
Chocolate
"White"
is not a recognized color; "Silver" isn't either.
If
someone is telling you these colors are purebreds,
you
might want to more research about the breed.
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Chocolate
- our Haley |

Yellow
- our Glory |

Black
- our Kris |
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| Top
Ten Reasons Not To Own A Lab
#1
Labs shed a lot. A female will
generally blow her coat (shed heavily) 2 times a year with her
heat cycle. All other neutered and spayed Labs will shed
moderately throughout the year and more so as the seasons
change. This hair collects on furniture, clothes and blows
across the floor in tumbleweeds. You will be amazed on where you
will find the dog hair. As we like to say, "Home is where
the dog hair sticks to everything except the dog". |

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#2 Labs are
people dogs. If you have allergies to
dog hair, dander or saliva, you will probably have problems with a Lab.
The somewhat oilier coat does keep down some dander, but not all of it.
Many breeders and owners would be glad to have you visit their dogs to
see if you can tolerate being around them. It is never fair to get a
puppy then find out your allergies are too bad and you have to tie the
dog up outside away from the family for the majority of its life. A Lab
should be with people. They should NEVER be left outside away from their
people. They will NEVER be happy living that way. Think of what is best
for the dog.
#3 Labradors are not clean. If you are a "neat freak",
you will not like a Lab. They shed. They can dig holes in your yard.
Track in mud. Chew on things. Rub up against and leave marks on your
walls. Clear off the coffee table with one wag of its tail. If you are a
neat freak, and want a dog as a showpiece, don't get a Lab. Get a
stuffed dog or one of those new robot dogs.
#4 Labs need a lot of exercise. The Labrador is an active breed.
This may not seem a problem if you are in the mood for some exercise
yourself. But they need an outlet for this energy every day. That means
when it is raining, on days you work late, when you are not feeling
good- your Lab will still want to go for a run, walk, play ball, go
swimming...whatever you two do. If you do not provide an outlet for his
pent-up energy....he may find one!
#5 Labs are prone to genetically linked problems (as most breeds).
Hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, eye problems, heart problems, epilepsy...the
list goes on. Do your homework! Ask your vet or read more about all of
these things.
#6 Labs are prone to other health problems. Some of which may or
may not be genetically linked. Included but not limited to: bloat, Pano,
OCD, thyroid problems and other immune system and endocrine problems.
#7 Labs stay puppies for a very long time. You may think great! I
love puppies. Well, only their minds stay puppies. Their bodies get big!
They remain clumsy, hard-headed, goofy and immature for a long time.
Labs are not really hard to train, but you have to be persistent. They
do need some form of training. Labs don't really mature until they are
2-3 years old.
#8 Labs can be easy to find. This is a good thing and a bad
thing. It means you should be able to find one easily, but also that
everybody and their brother are breeding them. Not everyone is doing so
properly and paying attention to temperament and health. The reputable
breeder's puppies are not cheap. Some people feel they can get off
cheaper by paying less someone else. Remember you get what you pay for.
You may purchase a puppy from an un-reputable source just to get a puppy
at a lower price, and run into many problems with the pup as he grows.
Most good breeders plan 1 or 2 litters a year. They often wait years
in-between breeding so they can evaluate what they are producing. Beware
of a breeder who always has puppies, or seems to be breeding numerous
litters every year. They may be out for their own gain, and not for the
overall health of the breed.
#9 A Lab may not be the best dog if you have very small children.
Labs are usually good around kids, but like all dogs, they have to be
taught to behave around children. A small puppy will naturally bite and
chew on, clothing, shoes, hands.... Those sharp puppy teeth can hurt a
child's hands without the puppy knowing it. A growing puppy will often
knock down a toddler in play. You have to supervise any dog around small
children.
#10 Labs Shed. Oh, did I say that one already? I couldn't see the
computer screen through all this dog hair.......
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Puppies Are NOT Good
Holiday Gifts
Santa knows better! A
puppy is not the perfect holiday gift. Each year ads
bombard us with images of adorable puppies wrapped in red bows
waiting under the tree for excited children who will shower them
with love and attention. But during the hectic holidays,
this is not reality.
If you considered giving a
puppy this holiday season, please reconsider. Puppies are
not something you should decide to get on an impulse. They
are a lifelong responsibility that continues for 8-14 years,
depending upon the breed. And during the holiday season,
most people are too busy to keep an eye on the new puppy to
ensure that it is well cared for and kept out of harms way.
To symbolize the gift of a dog
to come, consider putting a stuffed toy dog in a dog's
bed beneath the tree or wrapping other dog-related gifts such as
a book or doggie toy. Once the holidays are over, research
the breed and commit as a family to care for the new life that will
enter your home.
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Winter Weather
Essentials
Please take cold-weather
care of your dogs this winter:
- Don't leave your dog
outside in the cold for long periods of time.
- Be extra careful when
walking or playing with your dog near frozen lakes, rivers
or ponds. Your dog could slip or jump in and get
seriously injured.
- Feed your dog additional
calories if it spends a lot of time outside or is a working
animal.
- If your dog's footpads
get cut and cracked, apply petroleum jelly to soften the
pads.
- Don't leave your dog alone
in the car. If the car engine is left on, the carbon
monoxide will endanger your dog's life. If the engine
is off, the temperature in the car will get too cold.
- Antifreeze, which often
collects on driveways and roadways, is poisonous.
Although it smells and tastes good to your dog, it can be
lethal.
- Rock salt, used to melt ice
on sidewalks, may irritate footpads. Be sure to rinse
and dry your dog's feet after a walk.
- Provide plenty of fresh
water. Your dog is just as likely to get dehydrated in
the winter as in the summer. Snow is not a
satisfactory substitute from water.
- Frostbite is another winter
hazard. To prevent frostbite on your dog's ears, tail
and feet, don't leave your dog outdoors for too long.
- Like people, dogs seem to
be more susceptible to illness in the winter. Take
your dog to the veterinarian if you see any suspicious
symptoms.
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